Archive for the ‘Sustainable design’ Category

Rain garden update

Friday, June 11th, 2010

Remember the rain garden post?
(Click here to see the garden after planting during the wet season)

As soon as the weather warmed up, the plants started growing. Being occasionally submerged did not seem to bother them much – in fact, they seemed to enjoy the experience.

As you can see, there’s little resemblance to that mud hole. The lupines started flowering in May, followed by the tufted hair grass, then the paprika yarrow, then the daylillies. Some dwarf asters should finish off the flowering season in fall.

Rain garden meadow in June

Wildflower patch update

Monday, March 1st, 2010

Last year, we sowed assorted native California wildflower seeds in a non-irrigated area. We had Chinese Houses, California Poppy, Farewell to Spring, Baby Blue-Eyes, Tidy Tips and other flowers make an appearance. After the plants died we cut them down with hedge shears and shook the seeds over the soil as best we could (we didn’t use a weed whip because we didn’t want to whack the seeds out of the area).

This year, we’re getting a lot of grasses, with a lot of foxtails. These had been removed the previous year, but apparently there is quite a weed seed bank in the soil. Wildflower diversity is down, but there are some nice clumps of California poppy which apparently went dormant during the dry season. There are a few Farewell to Spring plants coming up, but no sign of the Chinese Houses, Tidy Tips or Baby Blue Eyes. Perhaps they are still there, hidden among the grasses. Where no wildflowers are evident, we pull the grasses and place them in a dry spot so they don’t produce seed. Later, they’ll be chopped up and used as a fine mulch.

Other non-native plants have given mixed results. Sparaxis bulbs did come back, but Anemone and Ranunculus (other than a weedy annual species) have not survived the extended dry period, although they are supposed to be adapted to these conditions.

Lupine was part of the original seed mix, but apparently it was not a frost hardy species. It does germinate with the first rains, but is killed off by the first frosts. There are other native lupine species that we can introduce next fall, perhaps along with some California native bulbs such as Brodaiea and (if we’re ambitious) Calochortus.

A new rain garden

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

RainGard_5893

The rain garden, in this case a fancy word for a depressed area in the landscape where rain water can pond and slowly infiltrate back into the soil, is partially installed. The trick here is that we’re blessed with heavy clay soil, so we didn’t know if the rain garden would take days or weeks to drain. So far, it seems to empty out after about three to four days of dry weather.

Another trick is that the plants in the lower portions have to survive immersion for indeterminate periods. For this, we’re testing various meadow grasses and perennials to see what works. So far, everything appears to be thriving despite multiple immersions. The lowest point is planted with Deschampsia caespitosa and Carex pansa, with some Lupinus polyphyllus thrown in. Areas that are not normally subject to immersion have Festuca idahoensis ‘Siskiyou Blue’, Muhlenbergia rigens, Calamagrostis acutifolia, Schizachyrium scoparium and Achillea millefolium ‘Paprika’. In summer, the rain garden will become a flowering meadow adjacent to an outdoor dining area.

When complete, the rain garden will overflow into a sediment trap, then into a powered sump that will remove the excess water before the house starts to float. Hopefully with time, biological processes of root growth, burrowing worms and insects will naturally introduce organic matter into the underlying clay and make it more permeable.

Right now, it just looks like a large mud puddle, but we’re hoping that it will transform into a beautiful green area with an added ecological function.

Bugs in your garden? Let them live.

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

First, I’m only talking about garden pests. Not roach infestations in restaurants or food processing centers. Just the usual bugs you’ll find in the usual garden. These are the inoffensive creatures whose only crime is being bugs in the wrong place (I’m excluding nesting hornets, and other “clear and present dangers”, too).

What I’m questioning is the need for “zero bug tolerance”. Aphids happen. They don’t last very long, since eventually the predator population builds up and reduces their population. But not to zero.

What about spiders? “Spiders are hard to kill, since they have very tiny feet,” as one pest control person, of the non-sustainable variety, said. But why do we have to kill them in the first place? Most of our spiders are harmless, and it could even be argued that they’re beneficial, since they eat mosquitoes that carry diseases that are much more harmful than the spiders.

If we’re planting things that are killed by insects, we decide that the insects are at fault – not the choice of the plant nor the environment into which its placed. So, we attack the insects, instead of just deciding to change the plant, modify the watering schedule or heaven forbid, just letting them live.

I’ve never seen an ornamental landscape plant killed outright by insects. I’ve seen them defoliated, but they recovered. Some plants have died, and insects have been contributing factors – but usually the plant was in a weakened state for another reason. However, I’ve seen many more plants killed by human error. Overwatering, frost tender plant frozen to black mush, wrong plant for the climate, acid loving plants in alkaline soil…

So why pick on the poor garden insects, spray a bunch of things that are strong enough to kill them around our homes?

Aphids, thrips, harlequin bugs, orb spiders, caterpillars… They all live in a well balanced garden, and some of them can even be kind of fun to look at as they stroll around the plants.

All things considered, most of the “bug” problems are in our heads, not in our gardens.

A small patch of wildflowers

Sunday, March 15th, 2009
This annual wildflower does very well in the Sacramento area.

This annual wildflower does very well in the Sacramento area.

We have a small strip of unirrigated land, where until last fall, we just let the weeds grow, then mowed them down when they started to dry out. We decided that wildflowers would be more interesting than weeds, or at least these weeds.

We selected a California native mix, with a good range of species. There should be baby blue eyes, California poppy, farewell to Spring, and a number of other species. They should flower from sometime in March until probably sometime in May.

Soil preparation was mimimal – water the area, wait a week or so for weeds to sprout, then cultivate them out. Chemical herbicides were out of the question, since this is supposed to be a sustainable, non-toxic landscape. Due to a late start, we only got through one watering / cultivation cycle before the season’s first rains were due. Just before the first storm, the seeds were mixed with some compost to thin them out, then broadcast over their new home.

Within a bit over a week, the first sprouts were growing. The only things we could identify were the poppies and some lupines. As the cotyledons grew into real leaves, we were able to add the farewell to Spring to the list of successful sprouts, along with a number of unknowns that could either be more weeds or our new wildflowers.

Now that several months have passed, we found that a good number of our potential wildflowers were in fact weeds. Foxtail, cranesbill, and several others. Despite the passage of a lawn mower piloted by an overzealous neighbor over part of the bed, most of the plants are developing nicely.

The first thing we learned is that it’s hard to remove weeds when you don’t know what’s a weed and what’s a wildflower. Luckily, some species of weeds bloomed early and thus proved their true nature.

The second thing we learned is that there is a lot of weeding involved, even for a strip that is barely three feet by ten feet. Better planting area preparation probably would have helped out a lot here.

Now, it’s wait and see for the bloom season.

Some thoughts on golf courses

Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008

I was at a seminar the other day at a golf course, and was looking at all the energy consuming, toxic lawn. The lawn could probably made less toxic by applying organic growing techniques, it could consume less water if alternate species were used, or if the water applied were captured for reuse. However, it would still need mowing in order to be playable, and right now mowers use gas that could really be put to better uses.

So, here are some ideas about mowing, just because this subject came up at lunch…

Have the golfers mow the course with push mowers in exchange for play credit.

Put a counter on the wheel of the course (tamper proof, of course), and give out free play, lessons, etc. according to distance mowed.

Tow reel type mowers behind golf carts

Golf carts are electric, so they pollute less than lawn mowers. So, find a way of having them tow a reel type mower. Might have to widen the wheels or something, though.

Goats or sheep

For the real Scottish look, let animals do the job. No grazing during play, since beaning a sheep is not nice.

Hire lots of people to push reel type mowers

Have a big line of people mow the course using only human energy

That’s all we could think of before our food arrived.

Lawn substitutes

Monday, October 13th, 2008

Recently, people have been looking into using alternate varieties of naturally low-growing, evergreen plants. Some are listed as low growing, since their leaves don’t grow very tall, but some of these get flowers that rise well above the leaves, requiring more maintenance. Most have to be planted as plugs (tiny plants) instead of sod or seed, so there is a longer establishment period. These species have been discussed for the Sacramento Valley:

  • Carex praegracilis (also known as Carex pansa). Evergreen sedge, naturally low growing, no tall flowers. Native to California.
  • Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa). Leaves are low, but flowers rise high enough to turn your “lawn” into a meadow. Native to California.
  • Berkeley sedge, Carex divulsa (formerly known as Carex tumulicola). Higher growing, but grows well here. Would need occasional high mowing. Native to Central Europe.
  • Buffalo grass, Buchloe dactyloides. Naturally low growing grass. Turns brown in winter.