Archive for the ‘Planting design’ Category

Rain garden update

Friday, June 11th, 2010

Remember the rain garden post?
(Click here to see the garden after planting during the wet season)

As soon as the weather warmed up, the plants started growing. Being occasionally submerged did not seem to bother them much – in fact, they seemed to enjoy the experience.

As you can see, there’s little resemblance to that mud hole. The lupines started flowering in May, followed by the tufted hair grass, then the paprika yarrow, then the daylillies. Some dwarf asters should finish off the flowering season in fall.

Rain garden meadow in June

Wildflower patch update

Monday, March 1st, 2010

Last year, we sowed assorted native California wildflower seeds in a non-irrigated area. We had Chinese Houses, California Poppy, Farewell to Spring, Baby Blue-Eyes, Tidy Tips and other flowers make an appearance. After the plants died we cut them down with hedge shears and shook the seeds over the soil as best we could (we didn’t use a weed whip because we didn’t want to whack the seeds out of the area).

This year, we’re getting a lot of grasses, with a lot of foxtails. These had been removed the previous year, but apparently there is quite a weed seed bank in the soil. Wildflower diversity is down, but there are some nice clumps of California poppy which apparently went dormant during the dry season. There are a few Farewell to Spring plants coming up, but no sign of the Chinese Houses, Tidy Tips or Baby Blue Eyes. Perhaps they are still there, hidden among the grasses. Where no wildflowers are evident, we pull the grasses and place them in a dry spot so they don’t produce seed. Later, they’ll be chopped up and used as a fine mulch.

Other non-native plants have given mixed results. Sparaxis bulbs did come back, but Anemone and Ranunculus (other than a weedy annual species) have not survived the extended dry period, although they are supposed to be adapted to these conditions.

Lupine was part of the original seed mix, but apparently it was not a frost hardy species. It does germinate with the first rains, but is killed off by the first frosts. There are other native lupine species that we can introduce next fall, perhaps along with some California native bulbs such as Brodaiea and (if we’re ambitious) Calochortus.

Bodacious Bamboos! (and a palm)

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

We’re getting things together for our designer garden at the San Francisco Flower and Garden show coming up in March. One of our main themes is edible plants – but low maintenance and water conserving varieties.

We’ll be working with Instant Jungle Nursery in Cotati for both bamboos and a variety of palm that has very tasty fruit. The palm’s fruit taste sort of like Mandarin oranges, only with a large seed in the center.

pindo palm

Young pindo palm at nursery (Butia capitata)

Many bamboos have delicious shoots – forget those pale, tasteless things you get in cans or appear on your plate in an Asian restaurant. As far as we know, they’ll grow with gray water from your washing machine for irrigation. They also provide shade, usable canes and grow quickly – so they suck a lot of carbon out of the atmosphere.

The drawback is that they can be quite invasive, so running types need to be contained with root barriers of some kind. Not only that, but you’ll need to occasionally walk the perimeter to make sure the plants aren’t escaping.

Despite this requirement, bamboos can provide a beautiful screen in a narrow area. The canes should be thinned every year to keep the groves looking airy and light – and to let the new canes develop nicely.

If you’re going to be eating the shoots, they can be blanched with straw so that they stay white.

selecting bamboo

Selecting bamboo at Instant Jungle Nursery in Cotati

Moso bamboo

Moso (Phyllostachys heterocycla pubescens), a very tasty variety of bamboo

Phyllostacys vivax aureocaulis

Edible in this case does not mean boring. This Phyllostachys has nice foliage and beautiful canes. It needs a root barrier for containment, however.

Phyllostachys aureosulcata spectabilis

Not all bamboos are edible. This highly ornamental variety, Phyllostachys aureosulcata spectabilis, just isn't for eating. It sure is nice to look at, though.

Phyllostachys aureosulcata spectabilis

Another shot of the spectabilis, showing the foliage

leopard bamboo

This variety, called leopard bamboo for its spots, isn't edible either. It has very nice foliage and makes a great screen.

Black bamboo

Black bamboo, another inedible variety, has interesting new shoots.

Timber bamboo

Timber bamboo growing at the nursery. These varieties are great for places where quick height is desired. The shoots aren't edible, but some varieties such as Bambusa oldhamii are clumpers that don't require root barriers.

Senecio mandraliscae

Thursday, January 21st, 2010
Senecio mandralescae

Senecio mandralescae

This is a daisy. Although it doesn’t look much like one, it’s in the same family as your average marguerite. This is a very popular drought tolerant ground cover used in Southern California and the Bay Area. Supposedly, it can survive in Sacramento as well. We’ll see.

Aloe

Thursday, January 21st, 2010
Aloe leaf detail

Aloe leaf detail

Aloe plant in bud

Aloe plant in bud

This nifty aloe is supposed to be frost hardy in the Central Valley. It has interesting leaves and as a bonus gets typical red, tubular aloe type flowers that should attract hummingbirds.

Cape Rush

Thursday, January 21st, 2010
Chondropetalum tectorum leaf detail

Chondropetalum tectorum leaf detail

The rain garden area will get a Cape Rush (Chondropetalum tectorum), a large, bold grass-like plant from South Africa. This plant supposedly likes wet conditions during the rainy season that dry out as the year progresses.

The plant gets over six feet tall – definitely a bold, focal point.

Grevillea ‘Coastal Gem’

Thursday, January 21st, 2010
Grevillea 'Coastal Gem' plant

Grevillea 'Coastal Gem' plant

The hummingbird garden will get a Grevillea ‘Coastal Gem’, a compact gray shrub with numerous interesting red flowers in early spring. There will also be an Aloe ‘Pink Blush’, a compact succulent with – as the name says – a pink blush to the leaves. It has red, tubular flowers that should also please the hummingbirds.

Leucadendron salignum ‘Golden Tip’

Thursday, January 21st, 2010
Leucadendron salignum 'Golden Tip'

Leucadendron salignum 'Golden Tip'

Another distinctive South African plant, Leucadendron salignum ‘Golden Tip’ will contrast with an existing large bronze New Zealand flax. The cut stems and flowers are very interesting in cut flower arrangements, the plant is evergreen and attractive year round. It takes very little water once established. The only drawback is that it can be tricky to grow – it seems to be one of those plants that is either happy the way things are and thrives on neglect or it just suicides.

New New Zealand Flaxes (Phormium)

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

A couple of medium sized New Zealand flaxes will join the collection as well. ‘Sundowner’ has stiffly held red-bronze leaves and grows to five feet tall. ‘Tricolor’ has yellow and green variegated leaves that droop, with a distinct red band at the edges. By coincidence, the yellow in the leaves is similar to the yellow in the Leucadendron. We’ll probably place something between the two just to set them off a bit from each other.

Phormium 'Sundowner'

Phormium 'Sundowner'

Phormium 'Tricolor'

Phormium 'Tricolor'

Phormium 'Tricolor' plant in pot

Phormium 'Tricolor' plant in pot

Helleborus orientalis ‘Blue Lady’

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Hellebore_5897

A Helleborus orientalis ‘Blue Lady’ will go in a shaded area, with columbine and coral bells. The flowers are a solid deep maroon-magenta color on plants about a foot and a half high. It’s a great flower color, but the blue name is misleading, since neither the flowers nor the leaves has a blue cast. Even better, it blooms in mid-January.